Monday, September 8, 2014
Let's Go: Turkey!
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
We know it's shocking, but...
Shocking News!!
Jamie & I will be travelling to Hong Kong (again? I hear you say) this year at Christmas time. We fly out a few days before Christmas 2013, and then spend 12 or so days just hanging out round "the island". For a treat, we have shouted ourselves a harbour-view room for the last few nights in the Mandarin Oriental, so that we may watch the New Year's Eve fireworks! What a cracker (sorry)! Jamie doesn't know this yet, but I plan on getting a pretty techy point-n-shoot camera (as opposed to my very functional but heavy DSLR). So do stay posted for some amazing snaps of Hong Kong life.
Oh, and I have a countdown on by work desktop. Only 198 days, 19 hours to go (or so).
Love
Julie & Jamie Fox
The Travelling Foxes
xx
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Hello blog followers! Sorry for the lack of blogs, but the internet has been intermittent...
Jaipur was a really interesting place where they are very proud of their heritage. It is a state of princes & kings (raja & maharaja) & the men ALL wear moustaches. We visited Amber Fort & went ruby shopping, & stayed in an old ancestral palace (mahal).
Agra Fort was an amazing structure, where we caught our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. We visited the Taj at sunset, and no matter how many times you've seen pictures of it, it still takes your breath away. Magical.
On to Orccha & Khajuraho, where it is more relaxed & less touristy, and located in the "heart of India". More temples and historic sites, plus we were hosted by a local family with the most delicious home cooked meal.
Now we are in Varanasi. It's taken it all to another level... Varanasi is on the Ganges, and a very holy town, so many many pilgrims from Hindu, Buddha and other faiths.
Tonight we are doing a sunset "cruise" for a candle lighting ceremony for our ancestors & loved ones. You will all be in our thoughts.
Other than that we have both been well, with no reported cases of Delhi Belly. Fingers crossed. Cricket coverage is at high saturation point, so all the boys are happy!
Love to you all
Namaste
Julie & Jamie
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Singapore & The F1 Grand Prix
Coming out of a long cold Melbourne winter is no great preparation for the heat & humidity of Singapore. But everywhere is air-conditioned and the infinity pool is a pure dream! Jamie and I have made it to the Singapore Formula 1 GP for practice and qualifying sessions, but tonight is the race. Very exciting and looking forward to it!
Not much else to report yet. No I haven't done any shopping, just lazing poolside. It was great people watching yesterday. The best bit was witnessing the English bovva boys drinking a jug of champagne, heavily tattooed dripping in solid gold jewellery and rolexes getting asked to leave the pool deck. Priceless!
Til next time soon
Jamie and Julie
Saturday, February 18, 2012
Itchy Feet
The Travelling Foxes have again got itchy feet. Where to this time I hear you ask? Well, the journey begins in Singapore for the Formula 1 Grand Prix in September. Last year I asked "India or Peru?" on Facebook, and most of you said India. Singapore is just more than half way there for us, so after the GP, we head to Delhi and spend 20 days travelling the north & south of the country.
Our dear friends at Intrepid (we've travelled with them twice before) have agreed to show us the sights. This is the trip we've booked: http://www.intrepidtravel.com/trips/HHKZC#overview
"Nothing will prepare you", I hear you say, but jolly good because we are prepared to move out of our comfort zone. Waaay out of our comfort zone. I've heard stories before about the poverty, the smell, the conditions, etc but I want to experience the world & her peoples, and not just from a guide book or Nat Geo channel. The time for the luxury travel is close (by luxury I mean easy travel where they all speak english in 1st world countries), but there's still some things on my list that I have to see & experience. And those things will only get harder the older I get, so I'm getting them out the way. Climbing the Inca Trail at 70 anyone? No I don't think so. So Paris & cocktails will have to wait a few more years....
I'm also posting on Facebook, so if you want to befriend me, here I am: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=729276553&ref=tn_tnmn
If you have any comments or advice, we'd love to hear them!
Friday, September 16, 2011
Tasting Menu at Bo Innovation
Now that I've moved past the "raw prawn" episode (see previous blog), I'd like to share the tasting menu from Bo Innovation (Hong Kong). The description of the dish is in brackets:
TOMATO
(pat chun, "lam kok")
IBERICO 36
(morel, vermicelli)
this was jamon wrapped around morel mushroom & vermicelli noodle. Best dish award.
FOIE GRAS
("mui choy")
COD
(white miso, saffron, sauternes, seaweed)
I took a photo of this one, it's on my FB account. Delicious!
MOLECULAR
("xiao long bao") which of course we know as shanghai dumplings. Tasted right, but weird texture.
SCALLOP
(kaffir lime, kyoho grape, passion fruit, shichimi potato)
CENTURY EGG
(pickled ginger) nothing more to say on this one.
PLATS Choose one from the following:
SUCKLING PIG (sichuan vanilla, apple, peas)
LANGOUSTINE (mustard, salty egg, cauliflower, black truffle, duck sauce)
PIGEON (wood fungus, shiitake rice cake, "choy sum")
CARABINERO RED PRAWN ("har mi", lo mein, chili, sage) - my choice
SAGA-GYU BEEF (black truffle, soy, "cheung fun") - Jamie's choice
DESSERT
PINEAPPLE
(bun, white chocolate latte)
PETIT DIM-SUM
Monday, September 12, 2011
Day 6-10, Hong Kong - Port Douglas
After checking out of MetroPark & dropping the bags to the city bag drop (why can't Melb have a city check-in where they take your bags to the airport for you?), we headed off to Yin Yang, a private kitchen restaurant where the emphasis is on home-style cooking. Just what I needed to settle my funny tummy. Imagine my horror then when we got there to be told "no sorry you did not confirm yesterday of your booking". WTF? I'm on holidays & don't check my emails everyday! "Okay" he says, "see what I can do".
So we were served a very restricted set menu with water. Some water broccoli, some truffled scrambled egg & a clay pot mushroom & eel dish which was very bony but tasty. Great lunch but I am disappointed as I saw other tables being served crispy duck & rice, etc. :(
Time came to fly south to Port Douglas for the start of the "relaxing" part of the holiday. There's nothing better than sharing a bottle (or three) of bubbly with friends (thx Sarah) at the Tin Shed overlooking the inlet as the sun dips below the mountains.
The next few days were spent sleeping in, then walking along Four Mile Beach with a coffee for brekkie, having a bite to eat for lunch, a dip in the pool in the afternoon followed by the usual "where should we go for dinner" conversation.
Next we sail out to the reef to see tropical fish & turtles! Stay tuned!
Julie & Jamie xox
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Dinner Day 5, Bo Innovation, HKG
Day 5 dinner, Bo Innovation
A warm night, we sat on the terrace and enjoyed a glass of champers to start.
Trio of tomato, miso cod all good then first hurdle on the fois gras.
Then we were dished up what J & I affectionately call "fart in a glass". If you've ever been served Century Egg or Hundred-year egg in a Chinese restaurant you'll know what I'm talking about. Usually hard-boiled & grey looking, Bo Inn took the molecular approach & served century egg as a liquid poured over dry ice so that it become bubbles of gas... I doubt I now have to explain our name for it.
Then came the main part of the meal. Jamie chose the eye fillet of Wagyu beef with some black truffle which he says was delightful. I had a tougher time choosing between langoustine, pigeon, or prawn. The maitre'd highly recommended the prawn, as apparently it was the dish that got them onto the S. Pelligrino Best Restaurant list. Sure, I said confidently! Okay not so sure when it arrived, raw, and a fake head of cocktail sauce & fish roe. Not so much the taste (ok, but v fishy) it was the texture that freaked me out. There were only 3 but by the third one I was gulping water and I still feel queasy just writing about it!
Overall a great experience and no regrets, but I will ask "how is that cooked?" in future!
Til next time
J & J
xox
A warm night, we sat on the terrace and enjoyed a glass of champers to start.
Trio of tomato, miso cod all good then first hurdle on the fois gras.
Then we were dished up what J & I affectionately call "fart in a glass". If you've ever been served Century Egg or Hundred-year egg in a Chinese restaurant you'll know what I'm talking about. Usually hard-boiled & grey looking, Bo Inn took the molecular approach & served century egg as a liquid poured over dry ice so that it become bubbles of gas... I doubt I now have to explain our name for it.
Then came the main part of the meal. Jamie chose the eye fillet of Wagyu beef with some black truffle which he says was delightful. I had a tougher time choosing between langoustine, pigeon, or prawn. The maitre'd highly recommended the prawn, as apparently it was the dish that got them onto the S. Pelligrino Best Restaurant list. Sure, I said confidently! Okay not so sure when it arrived, raw, and a fake head of cocktail sauce & fish roe. Not so much the taste (ok, but v fishy) it was the texture that freaked me out. There were only 3 but by the third one I was gulping water and I still feel queasy just writing about it!
Overall a great experience and no regrets, but I will ask "how is that cooked?" in future!
Til next time
J & J
xox
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
The Foxes visit Jumbo Kingdom Floating Restaurant
Day 3-5, Hong Kong
I'd always wanted to experience Jumbo Kingdom Floating Restaurant in Aberdeen Harbour since my sister went there on her honeymoon in the '80's (hi Lyn). On Wed 31 Aug we travelled by sampan to the restaurant, where jumbo prawn crystal dumplings lived up to their name (the chunks of prawn were huge) and so fresh you'd swear the prawns were only fished out of their tank that morning.
A plate of steamed & wonderfully fresh assorted veggies accompanied the stir-fried lobster with chili & garlic crumb which sent both Jamie & I into gastronomic heaven. IT. WAS. SO. GOOD. The waitress was surprised when we said no to dessert, but was sympathetic when we explained we were eating our way around the island!
Thurs 1st Sept saw Jamie attending a full-day Chinese BBQ Cookery Class (where he was the only student). He had a ball, but promises to fill you in on what he learnt later (there's blowing up a duck with a mouth pump involved)!
Friday was another day of leisurely shopping (did someone say iPad2?), and that evening we had reservations at Bo Innovation, a top-class restaurant that is on many "must-do" lists when visiting HKG. The restaurant only has tasting menus (as opposed to a la carte), and we chose the most easy to maneuver (read: cheapest option). Even so, that was 8 courses!
I'm going to leave the description of the courses til the next blog, because as my friend Sue puts it, the blog quickly turns into "War & Peace"!
Love
Julie & Jamie
xx
I'd always wanted to experience Jumbo Kingdom Floating Restaurant in Aberdeen Harbour since my sister went there on her honeymoon in the '80's (hi Lyn). On Wed 31 Aug we travelled by sampan to the restaurant, where jumbo prawn crystal dumplings lived up to their name (the chunks of prawn were huge) and so fresh you'd swear the prawns were only fished out of their tank that morning.
A plate of steamed & wonderfully fresh assorted veggies accompanied the stir-fried lobster with chili & garlic crumb which sent both Jamie & I into gastronomic heaven. IT. WAS. SO. GOOD. The waitress was surprised when we said no to dessert, but was sympathetic when we explained we were eating our way around the island!
Thurs 1st Sept saw Jamie attending a full-day Chinese BBQ Cookery Class (where he was the only student). He had a ball, but promises to fill you in on what he learnt later (there's blowing up a duck with a mouth pump involved)!
Friday was another day of leisurely shopping (did someone say iPad2?), and that evening we had reservations at Bo Innovation, a top-class restaurant that is on many "must-do" lists when visiting HKG. The restaurant only has tasting menus (as opposed to a la carte), and we chose the most easy to maneuver (read: cheapest option). Even so, that was 8 courses!
I'm going to leave the description of the courses til the next blog, because as my friend Sue puts it, the blog quickly turns into "War & Peace"!
Love
Julie & Jamie
xx
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Tue 30 Aug - Zuma @ The Landmark
Tue 30 Aug, Zuma, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong
On Tues night we dined at Zuma, a modern Japanese restaurant housed in The Landmark, central Hong Kong. Really an izakaya rather than a restaurant, dishes are small & designed to be shared, like the tapas style of dining that has swept the world.
Starting the evening with a champagne & Crown Lager on a balmy 27 degree night, Sevva serves drinks whilst overlooking the banking district on Hong Kong Island. We moved from the terrace to our table at Zuma & shared some moorish edamame, steamed & sprinkled with sea salt. Wash that down with a chilled glass of Italian Pinot Grigio, and you have one happy duck!
Soft-shelled crab with a fresh cucumber & coriander salad helped cut through the slight oil of the deep fryer, whilst the grilled scallops with daikon & black sesame seed was a mouth pop sensation.
The highlight of the meal however was the spicy wagyu beef, less than the size of a fist, sliced and cooked to perfection. Grilled jumbo prawns (more the size of scampi than prawn!) were served sliced & back in the shell. A wonderful fresh seafood finish to the meal.
Of course we returned to the terrace at Sevva for a night-cap, and to watch the Island slowly turn off its lights in preparation for another day of drinking, dining and high-flying deals!
Tune in next time to read about Jamie's cookery class!
Julie & Jamie
xx
On Tues night we dined at Zuma, a modern Japanese restaurant housed in The Landmark, central Hong Kong. Really an izakaya rather than a restaurant, dishes are small & designed to be shared, like the tapas style of dining that has swept the world.
Starting the evening with a champagne & Crown Lager on a balmy 27 degree night, Sevva serves drinks whilst overlooking the banking district on Hong Kong Island. We moved from the terrace to our table at Zuma & shared some moorish edamame, steamed & sprinkled with sea salt. Wash that down with a chilled glass of Italian Pinot Grigio, and you have one happy duck!
Soft-shelled crab with a fresh cucumber & coriander salad helped cut through the slight oil of the deep fryer, whilst the grilled scallops with daikon & black sesame seed was a mouth pop sensation.
The highlight of the meal however was the spicy wagyu beef, less than the size of a fist, sliced and cooked to perfection. Grilled jumbo prawns (more the size of scampi than prawn!) were served sliced & back in the shell. A wonderful fresh seafood finish to the meal.
Of course we returned to the terrace at Sevva for a night-cap, and to watch the Island slowly turn off its lights in preparation for another day of drinking, dining and high-flying deals!
Tune in next time to read about Jamie's cookery class!
Julie & Jamie
xx
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Hong Kong, Days 1-2
After almost being denied entry into Hong Kong (again!) we dropped our bags at our hotel & set off for some unbelievable yum-cha. Ahhh some things never change.
The restorative powers of yum-cha are not to be sniffed at, or rushed, so after a leisurely lunch & watching the passing parade, we couldn't help but stop off & purchase the necessities. For me, that means make-up, skin care, clothes & most importantly SHOES, and for Jamie, gadgets, shirts, and BBQ Sausage Mong Kok style flavored chips. I know.
Dinner on day 1 was at the Michelin-starred Morton's of Chicago. You wouldn't expect a steakhouse to be so popular in HKG, right? But Morton's is in the Sheraton & I guess they get a lot of Americans staying there. Whatever, because I chose the filet mignon, which was the tenderest piece of meat I've eaten in a long time. Such a great evening, only slightly off put by the fact that Morton's is one of THE destinations for special birthday dinners, with the staff singing "Happy Birthday" six times while we were there, and that's on a Monday night!!
Day two was slightly more low-key, with us not getting moving until 11am, brunch followed by more shopping, and a refreshing dip in our rooftop pool. Tonight we are dining at Zuma at The Landmark Oriental hotel. Supposed to be a top class Japanese restaurant, and the way my tummy's grumbling, I just hope service is up to speed!
Photos will follow on Facebook in the near future! Til next time
Julie & Jamie
xox
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
The Adventure Awaits...
The Travelling Foxes are flying off to Hong Kong (yes, again) on Sunday, 28 Aug.
We are looking forward to the authentic yum-cha, the great shopping, the culture and of course the wonderful dining.
After 6 days of indulgence, we fly overnight to Cairns & transfer to the wonderfully peaceful enclave of Port Douglas, for some serious R&R. So the way I see it, go hard in Hong Kong, sleep it off in Port Douglas. The Hangover II has got nothing on us...
Til very soon,
The Travelling Foxes
xox
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Loooong Cold Winter
 |
| Boat on Albert Park Lake, Melbourne |
We are currently in what you'd call the "depths of winter" here in Melbourne..:(
Because we are OVER it, the Travelling Foxes are only 4.3 weeks away from jetting off somewhere warm, namely HONG KONG. Followed a week later by a stint in tropical PORT DOUGLAS, and you have the makings of a lovely 2-week holiday (smiles all round).
Because we love travelling, and we travel on our stomachs, I have put together a "gourmet selection" of restaurants we will be dining at while in HKG. In no particular order, we are looking forward to sampling the fare at:
- Bo Innovation
- Yin Yang Private Kitchen
- Zuma, Landmark Mandarin Oriental
- Morton's of Chicago
We are going the spontaneous dining route in Port Douglas, so stay tuned for reviews of the restaurants (& photos) while we are away!
Julie & Jamie
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Trip plans 2011
Because it's our favourite city in the world (and Foxy's too) we were thinking about going to Hong Kong in August. Then we realised that we need a "holiday", you know, the type that you just lie around, eat, drink cocktails, eat, sleep, eat, etc.!
So we're thinking Port Douglas in August. We've got to survive a long, cold winter in Melbourne, so somewhere tropical, where they speak the language & accept AUD is very appealing!
Already looking forward to lying by the pool & not having a care in the world!
Julie & Jamie Fox
So we're thinking Port Douglas in August. We've got to survive a long, cold winter in Melbourne, so somewhere tropical, where they speak the language & accept AUD is very appealing!
Already looking forward to lying by the pool & not having a care in the world!
Julie & Jamie Fox
Monday, October 18, 2010
Madrid, the Market & a whole lot in between
5th - 14th Oct
We arrived in Madrid on a glorious morning after an overnight train ride from Lisbon. Our connecting train to the north coast & San Sebastian wasn't leaving until 4.30pm, so we spent the day relaxing by the lake in the large park near the Prado Museum. It was a cloudless autumn day, with lots of people rowing boats across the lake & Jamie enjoying another of Spain's finest brews.
San Sebastian is a 5.5 hour train ride north, so we didn't arrive until 10pm. Jamie had an uncomfortable feeling about the booking he had made at the pensione in SanSeb (it was over the phone), and well, he was right. When we found the place, there was no answer at the door, even though we tried for 20 minutes. Growing desperate & realising that we were at the start of a long weekend for the Spaniards, we started door knocking at different pensiones & hotels, but all were "completo", FULL! I had visions of sleeping at the train station, until the lovely Jose answered the door in his jammies, & because of a double booking he had a room available. It turned out as a blessing as the room was clean, spacious & cheaper than the original one we had found. SanSeb also turned out to be a blessing, with their version of tapas (pinxtos) sitting atop every bar waiting for you to make your choice with a glass of cava (bubbles), blanco/rosado/tinto (white/rose/red wine) or cerveca. No one really gets going until 9pm, so we have adjusted our internal waking/eating/sleeping clocks by 2 hours!
Back in Madrid we hit the ground running & bought a 3-day metro pass, & a 3-day Madrid Culture Card which paid for itself when we realised it allowed us "special access" or queue jumping at the major palaces & museums!! It was Spain's national day on Tue 12 October, so a lot of people were in town for a long weekend, and we found queues a mile long at all the major sites we visited: Palacio Real (Royal Palace, a true gem), Prado Museum & Centro Arte de Reino Sofia (priceless works of art by, amongst others Picasso, Goya, El Greco, Velazquez, Murillo, Dali), Real Madrid (their soccer stadium & trophy room), the major bullfighting ring, and various other cultural sites.
One of our favourite places though was visited through our stomachs. The Mercado de San Miguel (San Miguel Market) was a foodie paradise. Each little stall had a specialty, and you could buy a sample or tapas of all the different foods; cheese, croquetas (like little creamy potato dumplings, but soft & fluffy & cheesy OMG), jamon, bruschetta, & there was even a champagne bar selling glasses of fine french champagne BY THE GLASS. I should devote the next blog entirely to this market, it was that good...
The next stop is Seville, Cadiz & Granada in sunny Andalusia. Thanks for stopping by. And thanks for posting comments, it's great to hear from you, reader!
The Travelling Foxes
Julie & Jamie
xox
We arrived in Madrid on a glorious morning after an overnight train ride from Lisbon. Our connecting train to the north coast & San Sebastian wasn't leaving until 4.30pm, so we spent the day relaxing by the lake in the large park near the Prado Museum. It was a cloudless autumn day, with lots of people rowing boats across the lake & Jamie enjoying another of Spain's finest brews.
San Sebastian is a 5.5 hour train ride north, so we didn't arrive until 10pm. Jamie had an uncomfortable feeling about the booking he had made at the pensione in SanSeb (it was over the phone), and well, he was right. When we found the place, there was no answer at the door, even though we tried for 20 minutes. Growing desperate & realising that we were at the start of a long weekend for the Spaniards, we started door knocking at different pensiones & hotels, but all were "completo", FULL! I had visions of sleeping at the train station, until the lovely Jose answered the door in his jammies, & because of a double booking he had a room available. It turned out as a blessing as the room was clean, spacious & cheaper than the original one we had found. SanSeb also turned out to be a blessing, with their version of tapas (pinxtos) sitting atop every bar waiting for you to make your choice with a glass of cava (bubbles), blanco/rosado/tinto (white/rose/red wine) or cerveca. No one really gets going until 9pm, so we have adjusted our internal waking/eating/sleeping clocks by 2 hours!
Back in Madrid we hit the ground running & bought a 3-day metro pass, & a 3-day Madrid Culture Card which paid for itself when we realised it allowed us "special access" or queue jumping at the major palaces & museums!! It was Spain's national day on Tue 12 October, so a lot of people were in town for a long weekend, and we found queues a mile long at all the major sites we visited: Palacio Real (Royal Palace, a true gem), Prado Museum & Centro Arte de Reino Sofia (priceless works of art by, amongst others Picasso, Goya, El Greco, Velazquez, Murillo, Dali), Real Madrid (their soccer stadium & trophy room), the major bullfighting ring, and various other cultural sites.
One of our favourite places though was visited through our stomachs. The Mercado de San Miguel (San Miguel Market) was a foodie paradise. Each little stall had a specialty, and you could buy a sample or tapas of all the different foods; cheese, croquetas (like little creamy potato dumplings, but soft & fluffy & cheesy OMG), jamon, bruschetta, & there was even a champagne bar selling glasses of fine french champagne BY THE GLASS. I should devote the next blog entirely to this market, it was that good...
The next stop is Seville, Cadiz & Granada in sunny Andalusia. Thanks for stopping by. And thanks for posting comments, it's great to hear from you, reader!
The Travelling Foxes
Julie & Jamie
xox
Friday, October 15, 2010
Landing in Lisbon
30th Sept - 5th Oct
We were sad to leave Essaouira, as it was a charming seaside village that allowed us to unwind. However the journey continues so we boarded a bus for Marrakech before the (very) long process of leaving Africa on a flight to Lisbon, Portugal.
Landing at roughly 2pm on Oct 1, a little cheer went up from Jamie & myself when we landed in Lisbon at the prospect of eating "normal" food & not having to drink water from a bottle... Lisbon is a gorgeous town on the Tagus River, with lots of hills and ancient alleyways. We soon found ourselves settled at a table with glass of wine & olives etc just watching the very stylish Lisboans go about their Friday evening ritual. Very chic, but not too unlike Melbourne!
Over the weekend we visited the second largest aquarium in the world, plus the Lisbon Zoo set in a gorgeous garden. It was a little cooler & rained a bit that day, but that meant no kiddies & the animals were more active than I've ever witnessed at any other zoo! Jamie was rewarded with cerveza for his endless patience.
Another day was spent visiting the charming & world heritage listed village of Sintra on the coast (think Perth to Fremantle), a bit like the Blue Mountains meets Hahndorf meets Lichtenstein & you get the idea! Most of the time spent in Lisbon however has been focussed around preparing our taste-buds for Spain, with visits to some highly recommended restaurants. Jamie wants to try his hand at some of the dishes we've tried, so if you are lucky enough to score an invite to our place (!!) you are in for a treat.
Adios & see you in Spain!
The Travelling Foxes
xox
We were sad to leave Essaouira, as it was a charming seaside village that allowed us to unwind. However the journey continues so we boarded a bus for Marrakech before the (very) long process of leaving Africa on a flight to Lisbon, Portugal.
Landing at roughly 2pm on Oct 1, a little cheer went up from Jamie & myself when we landed in Lisbon at the prospect of eating "normal" food & not having to drink water from a bottle... Lisbon is a gorgeous town on the Tagus River, with lots of hills and ancient alleyways. We soon found ourselves settled at a table with glass of wine & olives etc just watching the very stylish Lisboans go about their Friday evening ritual. Very chic, but not too unlike Melbourne!
Over the weekend we visited the second largest aquarium in the world, plus the Lisbon Zoo set in a gorgeous garden. It was a little cooler & rained a bit that day, but that meant no kiddies & the animals were more active than I've ever witnessed at any other zoo! Jamie was rewarded with cerveza for his endless patience.
Another day was spent visiting the charming & world heritage listed village of Sintra on the coast (think Perth to Fremantle), a bit like the Blue Mountains meets Hahndorf meets Lichtenstein & you get the idea! Most of the time spent in Lisbon however has been focussed around preparing our taste-buds for Spain, with visits to some highly recommended restaurants. Jamie wants to try his hand at some of the dishes we've tried, so if you are lucky enough to score an invite to our place (!!) you are in for a treat.
Adios & see you in Spain!
The Travelling Foxes
xox
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Marrakech, the souqs & getting lost in it all!
25-29th Sept
On Saturday 25 Sept we caught the "Kesh Express", which wasn't really express but it got us to Marrakech in 3 hours for $18ea, first class. We checked out the famous market square Djemaa el-Fna which has seen activity for the past 1000 years! We got lost then found our way out of the labyrinthine souqs and had dinner overlooking the square as the muezzin called the faithful to prayer. The following morning Mustafa, our very jovial guide delighted in showing us the sights of his city. We explored tombs, palaces, a traditional organic pharmacy and led us through the souq once more where he seemed to know everyone. A few pairs of slippers later (think Sex & The City 2) we were ready for lunch & again we perched ourselves on a terrace watching the Djemaa el-Fna weave its magic.
Catching a bus to Essaouira on the the Atlantic Coast, we were met by a very cool & laid-back Ahmed, the antithesis of Mustafa of Marrakech. Ahmed was Essaouira personified, as "Ess" has been known as a hippie-hangout since the sixties. Jamie & I found ourselves just chilling by the beach, watching the kite-surfers & sailboarders utilise the winds that whip up from the Atlantic (apparently there's 7 different types of winds, the Sirocco & the Mistral being two of them). We finished our day enjoying fresh calamari & grilled lobster, washed down with a bottle of white wine overlooking the sun sinking into the ocean behind us. Bliss.
Miss you all!
The Travelling Foxes
xox
On Saturday 25 Sept we caught the "Kesh Express", which wasn't really express but it got us to Marrakech in 3 hours for $18ea, first class. We checked out the famous market square Djemaa el-Fna which has seen activity for the past 1000 years! We got lost then found our way out of the labyrinthine souqs and had dinner overlooking the square as the muezzin called the faithful to prayer. The following morning Mustafa, our very jovial guide delighted in showing us the sights of his city. We explored tombs, palaces, a traditional organic pharmacy and led us through the souq once more where he seemed to know everyone. A few pairs of slippers later (think Sex & The City 2) we were ready for lunch & again we perched ourselves on a terrace watching the Djemaa el-Fna weave its magic.
Catching a bus to Essaouira on the the Atlantic Coast, we were met by a very cool & laid-back Ahmed, the antithesis of Mustafa of Marrakech. Ahmed was Essaouira personified, as "Ess" has been known as a hippie-hangout since the sixties. Jamie & I found ourselves just chilling by the beach, watching the kite-surfers & sailboarders utilise the winds that whip up from the Atlantic (apparently there's 7 different types of winds, the Sirocco & the Mistral being two of them). We finished our day enjoying fresh calamari & grilled lobster, washed down with a bottle of white wine overlooking the sun sinking into the ocean behind us. Bliss.
Miss you all!
The Travelling Foxes
xox
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Casablanca Cool
Wed/Thu/Fri 22-24 Sept
Back in Cairo, we visited one of the oldest market places in the world, the Khan el Khalili markets & souq. Jamie tried puffing on a sheesh-thingy with mint-flavoured tobacco along with his morning coffee (too early for me) after which we tried our bargaining powers (we suck!). However we came away happy & proud owners of some silverware, gifts, beach cover-ups (I won't say kaftan!) but no pyramid or Tut statues! That night we said farewell over a typical Egyptian meal & a few laughs (remind me to tell you about the Listerine-flavoured soda water).
So excited to be going to Morocco at Thu lunchtime, we got to the airport, oh about 4 hours early. However, there are no coffee shops, or seats for that matter before you go through to baggage check, which of course they won't let you in until about 2hrs before your flight... It's a 5hr 50min flight, and on landing in Casablanca we went to our hotel on the Corniche, just out of the old town on the Atlantic Coast. On Friday morning we wandered along the Corniche (quite St Kilda-esque in look & feel) and had deux cafe s'il vous plait (testing out my high-school french). We caught un petit-taxi to the train station & bought our tickets to Marrakech for the following day. Another taxi back to the hotel, but we asked the driver to recommend a lovely restaurant for dinner. He suggested a seafood restaurant called La Mer, and that night Jamie & I had a wonderful meal & a bottle of gerwurtz-traminer. Went home full & happy, ready for the train journey to Marrakech the following morning.
Back in Cairo, we visited one of the oldest market places in the world, the Khan el Khalili markets & souq. Jamie tried puffing on a sheesh-thingy with mint-flavoured tobacco along with his morning coffee (too early for me) after which we tried our bargaining powers (we suck!). However we came away happy & proud owners of some silverware, gifts, beach cover-ups (I won't say kaftan!) but no pyramid or Tut statues! That night we said farewell over a typical Egyptian meal & a few laughs (remind me to tell you about the Listerine-flavoured soda water).
So excited to be going to Morocco at Thu lunchtime, we got to the airport, oh about 4 hours early. However, there are no coffee shops, or seats for that matter before you go through to baggage check, which of course they won't let you in until about 2hrs before your flight... It's a 5hr 50min flight, and on landing in Casablanca we went to our hotel on the Corniche, just out of the old town on the Atlantic Coast. On Friday morning we wandered along the Corniche (quite St Kilda-esque in look & feel) and had deux cafe s'il vous plait (testing out my high-school french). We caught un petit-taxi to the train station & bought our tickets to Marrakech for the following day. Another taxi back to the hotel, but we asked the driver to recommend a lovely restaurant for dinner. He suggested a seafood restaurant called La Mer, and that night Jamie & I had a wonderful meal & a bottle of gerwurtz-traminer. Went home full & happy, ready for the train journey to Marrakech the following morning.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Luxor & the Valley of the Kings
20-21st Sept
Watching the Nile swirl in eddies & flows, the great volume of water, always moving, it made me think it is a great analogy for the movement of life. Never resting, appearing calm on the surface at times but moving underneath, sustaining life for thousands of years. Until the building of the great High Dam & the flooding to create Lake Nasser, the Nile would flood & displace thousands of people.
Nile-o-meters built at the temples indicated the level of the Nile, and consequently the taxes collected by the priests were set for the coming year. If the Nile was high, it indicated a prosperous year & therefore higher taxes, a low water level the transverse was true.
Mon/Tue 20-21/9
Arriving in Luxor, we relaxed by the pool for the afternoon. I indulged in a mani-pedi, and a full-body scrub & mud wrap. You don't want to be shy or self-conscious for that one! Off to bed early, because yet again an early morning wakeup call for our balloon ride!
Tues morn we were picked up & taken to the dock for a short ferry ride across the Nile to the West Bank. We serenely floated above Hatshepsut's Temple. Beyond the temple lies the Valley of the Kings, our destination later that morning. Having the Chief Test Pilot on board made both Jamie & I feel extremely safe & confident. After a very gentle landing in one of the surrounding fields, we were whisked to see the imposing Temple of Hatshepsut, which acts as an entrance way to the V of the Kings. Hatshepsut was the only female that acted as Pharaoh, so go girl power!
Arriving in the Valley, we chose to visit the tombs of Ramses I, III, & IX, but first visited the tomb that sits directly above Tutankhamen's, that of Ramses V & VI. Extraordinarily bright in colour, there was no-one else visiting the tomb at that moment. It made the entrance & descent quite surreal, as you could imagine a royal mummy being carried by his loyal subjects into the heart of the burial chamber. All the mummies have been removed, but Tutankhamen's mummy is still in his burial chamber so we decided to let him rest in peace...
Watching the Nile swirl in eddies & flows, the great volume of water, always moving, it made me think it is a great analogy for the movement of life. Never resting, appearing calm on the surface at times but moving underneath, sustaining life for thousands of years. Until the building of the great High Dam & the flooding to create Lake Nasser, the Nile would flood & displace thousands of people.
Nile-o-meters built at the temples indicated the level of the Nile, and consequently the taxes collected by the priests were set for the coming year. If the Nile was high, it indicated a prosperous year & therefore higher taxes, a low water level the transverse was true.
Mon/Tue 20-21/9
Arriving in Luxor, we relaxed by the pool for the afternoon. I indulged in a mani-pedi, and a full-body scrub & mud wrap. You don't want to be shy or self-conscious for that one! Off to bed early, because yet again an early morning wakeup call for our balloon ride!
Tues morn we were picked up & taken to the dock for a short ferry ride across the Nile to the West Bank. We serenely floated above Hatshepsut's Temple. Beyond the temple lies the Valley of the Kings, our destination later that morning. Having the Chief Test Pilot on board made both Jamie & I feel extremely safe & confident. After a very gentle landing in one of the surrounding fields, we were whisked to see the imposing Temple of Hatshepsut, which acts as an entrance way to the V of the Kings. Hatshepsut was the only female that acted as Pharaoh, so go girl power!
Arriving in the Valley, we chose to visit the tombs of Ramses I, III, & IX, but first visited the tomb that sits directly above Tutankhamen's, that of Ramses V & VI. Extraordinarily bright in colour, there was no-one else visiting the tomb at that moment. It made the entrance & descent quite surreal, as you could imagine a royal mummy being carried by his loyal subjects into the heart of the burial chamber. All the mummies have been removed, but Tutankhamen's mummy is still in his burial chamber so we decided to let him rest in peace...
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Alexandria to Aswan
Tue/Wed 14-15 Sept - A leisurely drive to the coast delivered us to the sunny city of Alexandria, our home for the next two days. After exploring the Greco-Roman catacombs, we were taken on a tour of the brilliant UNESCO-funded project, Biblioteca Alexandrina (for me a personal highlight, because I LOVE libraries. I can hear Jamie in the background saying "nerd"). This new library replaces the ancient library that once stood here, and is now the second largest library in the world.
Being by the Mediterranean blows away the dust & grime of Cairo & we rewarded ourselves with a fresh seafood dinner. The following morning after visiting Qaitbey Citadel which not only stands on the site but is partially built from the blocks of the Pharos (Lighthouse) of Alexandria, we walked along the gorgeous Corniche & sat on the terrace of the Sofitel & people-watched. In the afternoon we headed for Cairo to board our overnight train to Aswan, 900kms to the south.
Thu/Fri 16-17 Sept - Arriving in Aswan, we visited the Temple of Philae which has to be approached by boat. This temple was saved from the creation of the High Dam by moving 40,000 blocks & pieces to a higher island. A remarkable feat. It was a very early night for all, as we had a 2am wake-up call. Abu Simbel is best seen at sunrise, and it is accessed either by a very long bus ride or a 30-min plane ride. Luckily for us it was a short trip on Memphis Air to see the great temple of Rameses II, and the four colossi that guard the entrance. This was another site that was saved from the flooding of the river Nile to create Lake Nasser. At lunchtime we were back in Aswan & boarding our river cruise for the next three days.
Sat/Sun 18-19 Sept - Cruising is a great way to see this part of the country, as you can lounge on the sundeck, dip in the pool & watch the ancient scenery pass by. The blocked toilets & constant diesel fumes are not exactly conducive to enjoyable travel, however. The cruising is interspersed with temple visits, such as the Temple of Horus (Falcon-headed god) at Kom Ombo, and Edfu Temple. However there is a distinct possibility that "temple-fatigue" will soon set in...
Being by the Mediterranean blows away the dust & grime of Cairo & we rewarded ourselves with a fresh seafood dinner. The following morning after visiting Qaitbey Citadel which not only stands on the site but is partially built from the blocks of the Pharos (Lighthouse) of Alexandria, we walked along the gorgeous Corniche & sat on the terrace of the Sofitel & people-watched. In the afternoon we headed for Cairo to board our overnight train to Aswan, 900kms to the south.
Thu/Fri 16-17 Sept - Arriving in Aswan, we visited the Temple of Philae which has to be approached by boat. This temple was saved from the creation of the High Dam by moving 40,000 blocks & pieces to a higher island. A remarkable feat. It was a very early night for all, as we had a 2am wake-up call. Abu Simbel is best seen at sunrise, and it is accessed either by a very long bus ride or a 30-min plane ride. Luckily for us it was a short trip on Memphis Air to see the great temple of Rameses II, and the four colossi that guard the entrance. This was another site that was saved from the flooding of the river Nile to create Lake Nasser. At lunchtime we were back in Aswan & boarding our river cruise for the next three days.
Sat/Sun 18-19 Sept - Cruising is a great way to see this part of the country, as you can lounge on the sundeck, dip in the pool & watch the ancient scenery pass by. The blocked toilets & constant diesel fumes are not exactly conducive to enjoyable travel, however. The cruising is interspersed with temple visits, such as the Temple of Horus (Falcon-headed god) at Kom Ombo, and Edfu Temple. However there is a distinct possibility that "temple-fatigue" will soon set in...
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