20-21st Sept
Watching the Nile swirl in eddies & flows, the great volume of water, always moving, it made me think it is a great analogy for the movement of life. Never resting, appearing calm on the surface at times but moving underneath, sustaining life for thousands of years. Until the building of the great High Dam & the flooding to create Lake Nasser, the Nile would flood & displace thousands of people.
Nile-o-meters built at the temples indicated the level of the Nile, and consequently the taxes collected by the priests were set for the coming year. If the Nile was high, it indicated a prosperous year & therefore higher taxes, a low water level the transverse was true.
Mon/Tue 20-21/9
Arriving in Luxor, we relaxed by the pool for the afternoon. I indulged in a mani-pedi, and a full-body scrub & mud wrap. You don't want to be shy or self-conscious for that one! Off to bed early, because yet again an early morning wakeup call for our balloon ride!
Tues morn we were picked up & taken to the dock for a short ferry ride across the Nile to the West Bank. We serenely floated above Hatshepsut's Temple. Beyond the temple lies the Valley of the Kings, our destination later that morning. Having the Chief Test Pilot on board made both Jamie & I feel extremely safe & confident. After a very gentle landing in one of the surrounding fields, we were whisked to see the imposing Temple of Hatshepsut, which acts as an entrance way to the V of the Kings. Hatshepsut was the only female that acted as Pharaoh, so go girl power!
Arriving in the Valley, we chose to visit the tombs of Ramses I, III, & IX, but first visited the tomb that sits directly above Tutankhamen's, that of Ramses V & VI. Extraordinarily bright in colour, there was no-one else visiting the tomb at that moment. It made the entrance & descent quite surreal, as you could imagine a royal mummy being carried by his loyal subjects into the heart of the burial chamber. All the mummies have been removed, but Tutankhamen's mummy is still in his burial chamber so we decided to let him rest in peace...
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Alexandria to Aswan
Tue/Wed 14-15 Sept - A leisurely drive to the coast delivered us to the sunny city of Alexandria, our home for the next two days. After exploring the Greco-Roman catacombs, we were taken on a tour of the brilliant UNESCO-funded project, Biblioteca Alexandrina (for me a personal highlight, because I LOVE libraries. I can hear Jamie in the background saying "nerd"). This new library replaces the ancient library that once stood here, and is now the second largest library in the world.
Being by the Mediterranean blows away the dust & grime of Cairo & we rewarded ourselves with a fresh seafood dinner. The following morning after visiting Qaitbey Citadel which not only stands on the site but is partially built from the blocks of the Pharos (Lighthouse) of Alexandria, we walked along the gorgeous Corniche & sat on the terrace of the Sofitel & people-watched. In the afternoon we headed for Cairo to board our overnight train to Aswan, 900kms to the south.
Thu/Fri 16-17 Sept - Arriving in Aswan, we visited the Temple of Philae which has to be approached by boat. This temple was saved from the creation of the High Dam by moving 40,000 blocks & pieces to a higher island. A remarkable feat. It was a very early night for all, as we had a 2am wake-up call. Abu Simbel is best seen at sunrise, and it is accessed either by a very long bus ride or a 30-min plane ride. Luckily for us it was a short trip on Memphis Air to see the great temple of Rameses II, and the four colossi that guard the entrance. This was another site that was saved from the flooding of the river Nile to create Lake Nasser. At lunchtime we were back in Aswan & boarding our river cruise for the next three days.
Sat/Sun 18-19 Sept - Cruising is a great way to see this part of the country, as you can lounge on the sundeck, dip in the pool & watch the ancient scenery pass by. The blocked toilets & constant diesel fumes are not exactly conducive to enjoyable travel, however. The cruising is interspersed with temple visits, such as the Temple of Horus (Falcon-headed god) at Kom Ombo, and Edfu Temple. However there is a distinct possibility that "temple-fatigue" will soon set in...
Being by the Mediterranean blows away the dust & grime of Cairo & we rewarded ourselves with a fresh seafood dinner. The following morning after visiting Qaitbey Citadel which not only stands on the site but is partially built from the blocks of the Pharos (Lighthouse) of Alexandria, we walked along the gorgeous Corniche & sat on the terrace of the Sofitel & people-watched. In the afternoon we headed for Cairo to board our overnight train to Aswan, 900kms to the south.
Thu/Fri 16-17 Sept - Arriving in Aswan, we visited the Temple of Philae which has to be approached by boat. This temple was saved from the creation of the High Dam by moving 40,000 blocks & pieces to a higher island. A remarkable feat. It was a very early night for all, as we had a 2am wake-up call. Abu Simbel is best seen at sunrise, and it is accessed either by a very long bus ride or a 30-min plane ride. Luckily for us it was a short trip on Memphis Air to see the great temple of Rameses II, and the four colossi that guard the entrance. This was another site that was saved from the flooding of the river Nile to create Lake Nasser. At lunchtime we were back in Aswan & boarding our river cruise for the next three days.
Sat/Sun 18-19 Sept - Cruising is a great way to see this part of the country, as you can lounge on the sundeck, dip in the pool & watch the ancient scenery pass by. The blocked toilets & constant diesel fumes are not exactly conducive to enjoyable travel, however. The cruising is interspersed with temple visits, such as the Temple of Horus (Falcon-headed god) at Kom Ombo, and Edfu Temple. However there is a distinct possibility that "temple-fatigue" will soon set in...
Friday, September 17, 2010
Pyramids, Sphinx, Ramses II
Nothing prepares you for your first glimpse of the Pyramids. You expect them to be like Uluru; you know, stuck out in the middle of nowhere, but civilisation is encroaching on these ancient monuments. We visited the Great Pyramid complex on Monday 13 Sept. Even though we were there at opening time, all the tickets to the interior of the Great Pyramid were sold out. No matter, we visited inside the "middle" pyramid, just as creepy I'm sure.
After a few photographic opportunities, the Sphinx was next on our agenda. Sitting in a small "pit" it is actually a lot smaller than usually depicted, but just as majestic. Jamie made me pose in a "kissing the Sphinx" shot (which I hate), but hey everyone was doing it even the cool italians!
After the Papyrus factory (they always get you!), we had a traditional Egyptian meal, the carb-loaded "koshari" lunch. Jamie is doing a food journal so he can explain that one!
The Egyptian Museum was another highlight of the day. After seeing the Narmer Palette (first known use of hieroglyphs) and some other amazing artifacts, we hit the jackpot. I got to eyeball Tutankhamen's death mask, with no-one else around! We saw just a fraction what was in his burial chamber & the treasures & jewellery just blow your mind.
We also visited the hall of the royal mummies, and paid our respects to some of the greatest pharaohs that existed. The mummy of Ramses II (aka Ramses the Great) takes pride of place, and we are closing the loop by visiting his extraordinary temple at Abu Simbel later this week. Unfortunately no photos can be taken inside the museum, but stay tuned for some snaps of the pyramids & the Sphinx.
Julie & Jamie
After a few photographic opportunities, the Sphinx was next on our agenda. Sitting in a small "pit" it is actually a lot smaller than usually depicted, but just as majestic. Jamie made me pose in a "kissing the Sphinx" shot (which I hate), but hey everyone was doing it even the cool italians!
After the Papyrus factory (they always get you!), we had a traditional Egyptian meal, the carb-loaded "koshari" lunch. Jamie is doing a food journal so he can explain that one!
The Egyptian Museum was another highlight of the day. After seeing the Narmer Palette (first known use of hieroglyphs) and some other amazing artifacts, we hit the jackpot. I got to eyeball Tutankhamen's death mask, with no-one else around! We saw just a fraction what was in his burial chamber & the treasures & jewellery just blow your mind.
We also visited the hall of the royal mummies, and paid our respects to some of the greatest pharaohs that existed. The mummy of Ramses II (aka Ramses the Great) takes pride of place, and we are closing the loop by visiting his extraordinary temple at Abu Simbel later this week. Unfortunately no photos can be taken inside the museum, but stay tuned for some snaps of the pyramids & the Sphinx.
Julie & Jamie
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Cairo Capers
- Arrived in Cairo yesterday morning 12th September after 24 hours of moving. Flew on the new A380 - great aircraft very quiet and spacious.
Arrived Cairo in the very early hours on the last day of the feast following Ramadan - it was a beautiful pink hazy dawn and the traffic was surprisingly sparse as we drove through into Cairo. In true Melbournian style we had the driver pull over and we ordered a couple of take away lattes for the journey.
After getting to our hotel and freshening up - we headed into Old Cairo - the original part of the capital. Our first stop was the Mosque of Mohamed Ali, who was the original founder of the modern Egyptian monarchy. Originally covered in alabaster the Mosque was beautiful inside and out - and the Egyptian have a particular pride and reverence for it.
Then into the ever narrowing streets and by ways until we entered the heart of old Cairo. This is all on foot as we enter a maze of lanes and gated doors dating back more than 2000 years. We visit the Coptic Christian church of St Sargius established in 859 AD - where its said that the Holy family hid in a crypt after fleeing.
A short walk away was the Synagogue of Ben Esra, According to lore - the Synagogue was established on the ruins of the palace of Ramases II - the Pharoah who had adopted Moses.
Final site was the Hanging Church - another Christian church that was built over the top of a Roman citadel and in some places actually seems to hang. All in all Cairo is an ancient city that has been at the cross roads of Religion and Empires, and has built on top of itself over its history.
After that Julie and I went to a grocery market and had a ball deciphering all the different chip packets etc. On the walk back to the hotel I spotted an outdoor Kebab parlor with the rotisserie over coals and couldn't resist one - delicious. All the while Julie was practicing her Arabic with the locals.
Back at the hotel we relaxed by the pool reading, with a few beers and a few swims - All in a BIG first day, tomorrow its of to Giza and the Great Pyramids.
Salam Julie & Jamie
Arrived Cairo in the very early hours on the last day of the feast following Ramadan - it was a beautiful pink hazy dawn and the traffic was surprisingly sparse as we drove through into Cairo. In true Melbournian style we had the driver pull over and we ordered a couple of take away lattes for the journey.
After getting to our hotel and freshening up - we headed into Old Cairo - the original part of the capital. Our first stop was the Mosque of Mohamed Ali, who was the original founder of the modern Egyptian monarchy. Originally covered in alabaster the Mosque was beautiful inside and out - and the Egyptian have a particular pride and reverence for it.
Then into the ever narrowing streets and by ways until we entered the heart of old Cairo. This is all on foot as we enter a maze of lanes and gated doors dating back more than 2000 years. We visit the Coptic Christian church of St Sargius established in 859 AD - where its said that the Holy family hid in a crypt after fleeing.
A short walk away was the Synagogue of Ben Esra, According to lore - the Synagogue was established on the ruins of the palace of Ramases II - the Pharoah who had adopted Moses.
Final site was the Hanging Church - another Christian church that was built over the top of a Roman citadel and in some places actually seems to hang. All in all Cairo is an ancient city that has been at the cross roads of Religion and Empires, and has built on top of itself over its history.
After that Julie and I went to a grocery market and had a ball deciphering all the different chip packets etc. On the walk back to the hotel I spotted an outdoor Kebab parlor with the rotisserie over coals and couldn't resist one - delicious. All the while Julie was practicing her Arabic with the locals.
Back at the hotel we relaxed by the pool reading, with a few beers and a few swims - All in a BIG first day, tomorrow its of to Giza and the Great Pyramids.
Salam Julie & Jamie
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Unfortunate Turn of Events
In last week's blog I mentioned that Penny & Samantha will be joining us for the Egyptian leg of our trip.
Due to unforeseen circumstances they can no longer make it, and we want to say how disappointed we are they wont be there to share the sights. This means there's a lot of vicarious living to be done. So I (we) promise to take lots & lots of photos, even the cheesy tourist ones (you know, like me kissing the Sphinx or holding up a pyramid etc) all of which will be posted here!
Next task: Packing!
We are both trying to keep our respective bags to 10kgs, but the guide books & reading material is close to 5kgs alone... maybe some culling is in order.
We have looked at the temperature outlook for Egypt & Morocco, and while we freeze here in Melbourne, we realise we won't be needing those extra jackets! Cairo's outlook for the week is mid-thirties all the way, only dropping to 22 degrees overnight.
Catch you all soon,
The Travelling Foxes
xoxox
Due to unforeseen circumstances they can no longer make it, and we want to say how disappointed we are they wont be there to share the sights. This means there's a lot of vicarious living to be done. So I (we) promise to take lots & lots of photos, even the cheesy tourist ones (you know, like me kissing the Sphinx or holding up a pyramid etc) all of which will be posted here!
Next task: Packing!
We are both trying to keep our respective bags to 10kgs, but the guide books & reading material is close to 5kgs alone... maybe some culling is in order.
We have looked at the temperature outlook for Egypt & Morocco, and while we freeze here in Melbourne, we realise we won't be needing those extra jackets! Cairo's outlook for the week is mid-thirties all the way, only dropping to 22 degrees overnight.
Catch you all soon,
The Travelling Foxes
xoxox
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